To start with, I have an array of sarees from Ilkal… Ilkal
sarees (Kannada: ಇಳಕಲ್ ಸೀರೆ) is a traditional form of saree which is a common
feminine wear in India.
Ilkal saree takes its name from the town of Ilkal in the Bagalkot
district of Karnataka state, India. Ilkal sarees are hand woven using cotton warp on the body
and art silk warp for border and art silk warp for pallu portion of the saree.
In some cases instead of art silk, pure silk is also used. The peculiar
characteristic of the saree is joining the body warp with the pallu warp which
is locally called as TOPE TENI. This technique is only used exclusively at
Ilkal. Warp threads for body is prepared separately. Similarly pallu warp is
prepared separately either with art silk or pure silk depending upon the
quality required. In general, the length of the pallu will range 16” to
27”. The pallu threads and body threads are joined in loop technique, a typical
method which is locally called as TOPE TENI.
Weaving of Ilkal sarees is mostly an indoor activity. It is
essentially a household enterprise involving active participation of female
members. To weave one saree with the help of the handloom, it takes about 7
days.
The distinctive feature of Ilkal sarees is the use of a form
of embroidery called as Kasuti. The designs used in Kasuti reflect traditional patters
like palanquins, elephants and lotuses which are embroidered onto Ilkal sarees.
These sarees are usually 9 yards in length and the pallu of the Ilkal saree
(the part worn over the shoulder) carries designs of temple towers.This pallu is usually made of red silk with white patterns.The end region of the pallu is made up of patterns of different shapes like
hanige (comb), koti kammli (fort ramparts), toputenne (jowar) and rampa
(mountain range). The border of the sari is very broad (4 to 6 inches) and red
or maroon in colour and is made of different designs with ochre patterns. The
saree is either made of cotton, or a mixture of cotton and silk or in pure
silk. The sarees that are made for bridal wear are made of a
particular colour called Giri Kumukum which is associated with the sindhoor
worn by the wives of the priests in this region.